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DIY security camera mounted too high in the gable of a Perth home with white conduit running down the brickwork

Why DIY Security Camera Kits Usually Disappoint

8 min readHome CCTV Perth

The short answer

Most disappointment with a DIY camera kit comes from the installation rather than the hardware. The hard parts are getting cable through a Perth roof space, mounting at a height that records a face, and setting the night view so infrared does not bounce off a wall and wash out the picture. Kits also lean on wifi and on motion triggered recording, so the gaps in the footage are the part you never see until the day you go looking for something.

Key Highlights

  • The box rarely disappoints on day one, and the install is where it comes apart
  • Roof space cabling in a double brick Perth home is the job people underestimate most
  • Cameras mounted too high record the top of a head rather than a face
  • Infrared bouncing off a wall, gutter or roller door turns the night picture into a white blur
  • Motion triggered recording misses the first moment, and a wifi dropout leaves no trace
  • Pre 1980s eave sheeting may contain asbestos, which is not a DIY drilling job

The Kit Is Rarely the Problem

Boxed camera kits are not badly made. The cameras usually produce a decent picture on the bench and the app does what the packaging says it will.

What disappoints people is the result at their own house six months later. That gap is almost always the installation rather than the hardware.

  • Cameras up too high because that was where a ladder reached
  • A cable run that had to be abandoned, so a camera went on wifi instead
  • A night picture nobody checked until the night it mattered
  • Motion alerts left on factory settings and then switched off entirely a week later
  • A recorder placed in a sealed cupboard with no air around it
  • A hard drive that quietly stopped writing months ago with nothing to announce it

None of those are faults with the product. They are decisions made on the day with a ladder in one hand and a set of instructions written for no house in particular.

The Roof Space Is the Hard Part

The part of a camera install that takes the time is getting a cable from the recorder to each camera position without anything showing on the outside of the house. In a Perth double brick home that means the roof space.

It is hot, tight and full of things you do not want to put a foot through. It is also where the decisions get made about whether a camera can go where you wanted it.

  • A tiled roof is reasonably easy to move through, so positions stay fairly open
  • A low pitch Colorbond roof is a crawl, and cameras end up where a person can physically reach
  • Roof space temperatures in a Perth summer are punishing, which is why cable pulling gets done early in the day
  • Eave sheeting on homes built before the late 1980s may contain asbestos, which should not be drilled
  • Two storey homes usually have no roof space above the ground floor, so lower cameras need a wall cavity or a hidden external run
  • Flat and skillion roofs with no crawl space mean conduit, which wants painting to match the wall so it stops being the first thing you see
  • Insulation, downlights, air conditioning ducting and old wiring all have to be worked around rather than through

When the run gets too hard, the usual DIY outcome is a compromise. Either the cable comes down the outside of the wall in white conduit, or the camera moves to wifi and inherits every wifi problem.

Height and Aim Decide the Footage

The most common kit install mistake is height. Cameras go up as high as the ladder allows, because that feels safer and looks tidier from the street.

A camera in a two storey gable records your roof tiles and the crown of a head. The same camera at roughly two and a half metres records a face you could identify somebody from.

The test that catches it

Ask somebody to walk up to your front door while you watch the live view. If you can tell it is a person but you could not pick them out of a group of five, the camera is too high or aimed too steeply down. That is a placement problem, not a resolution problem, and buying a sharper camera does not fix it.

Aim is the other half. Steeply angled down gives you the top of everything, and the lens should look along the path a person walks with only enough tilt to keep the ground in frame.

Night Is Where Kits Fall Over

Cameras earn their keep after dark, and a night picture is much less forgiving than a daytime one. An angle that looks perfect at two in the afternoon can be unusable at two in the morning.

What you see at nightUsual causeWhat fixes it
White glare across most of the frameInfrared bouncing off a wall, gutter or downpipe close to the lensMove the camera away from the reflective surface or turn the infrared down
Bright blob at the garage, black everywhere elseA roller door reflecting infrared straight backPosition the camera off to one side rather than square on
Unreadable plates on your own drivewayThe camera facing oncoming headlightsAngle across the driveway instead of along it
Foggy picture through a windowAn indoor camera reflecting its own infrared off the glassMove the camera outside under the eave
A blown out patch every time the sensor light comes onThe camera adjusting to a sudden bright light in frameReposition so the light source is out of the picture

Scroll the table sideways to see every column.

None of that shows up during a Saturday afternoon install. It shows up on the first dark night, by which point the holes are drilled and the brackets are in.

The Gaps You Never See

The quiet failure of a kit system is that it does not tell you when it is not working. You keep believing you are covered right up to the moment you go looking.

  • A wifi camera that loses signal simply stops recording, and nothing marks the gap in the timeline
  • Battery cameras are offline while they charge, and the one covering the back shed is the one most often forgotten
  • Motion triggered recording starts when the movement is detected, so the first second or two of an event is already gone
  • A failing hard drive can shrink your history from a fortnight to a day without any announcement
  • Cloud stored footage disappears with the subscription if you stop paying
  • An app that stopped connecting after your provider replaced the modem looks fine until you try to check in from somewhere else

Continuous recording to a drive at your house avoids most of that, because there is nothing to trigger and no signal to drop. The habit worth building either way is pulling up footage from a few days ago once a month to prove the system is still doing its job.

Alerts Nobody Reads

Factory alert settings are the fastest way to make a camera system useless. Straight out of the box a camera reacts to any movement anywhere in its view.

That means the road, the footpath, the neighbour's driveway, moths around the infrared, spider webs across the lens and plants moving in the afternoon sea breeze. Within a week the notifications are off and nobody looks at the app.

  • Mask everything past your own boundary so the street stops triggering the camera
  • Switch to person and vehicle detection rather than any change in the picture
  • Set alerts to the times that matter instead of all day
  • Choose which cameras alert at all, since the patio you are sitting on does not need to
  • Clean the housings, because infrared draws insects and insects draw spiders
  • Trim the branch that has grown into the driveway view before it sets things off all night

Tuning the alerts takes patience and it is the difference between a system you glance at daily and one you ignore. It is worth the time on the day the system goes in.

What to Do With a Kit You Already Own

Owning a kit that never worked properly is a common starting point, and it does not mean the money is wasted. Quite often there is something worth keeping.

  1. Find out what is still recording

    Pull up footage from three days ago on every camera. Anything that cannot produce it is not doing the job you think it is.

  2. Check the night view on each camera

    Check every camera after dark rather than in daylight. Glare and black holes are far more common than people expect.

  3. Work out which positions are wrong

    Too high, aimed too steeply down, or looking at a wall. Some cameras can simply be moved and become useful.

  4. See whether the cable can be reused

    If somebody managed a run through the roof space, that labour is already paid for and often stays even when the cameras are replaced.

  5. Keep the wireless cameras for indoor spots

    A wifi camera that struggles at the back fence can be perfectly good in a hallway or a garage close to the modem.

  6. Have the rest assessed properly

    An upgrade around what already works is a much smaller job than starting from nothing, and it should be quoted that way.

We take over systems other people installed, including hardware store kits, and we will tell you plainly which parts are worth keeping. The quote comes in writing after somebody has inspected what is there.

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Questions People Ask

What goes wrong most often with DIY security camera kits?

Placement and cabling, rather than the hardware. Cameras end up too high because that is where the ladder reached, cable runs get abandoned and cameras move onto wifi, and nobody checks the night view until the night it matters. Alerts left on factory settings then get switched off because they fire on every passing car.

Why is my camera picture white at night?

Usually infrared bouncing back into the lens. A wall, gutter, downpipe or roller door too close to the camera reflects its own infrared light straight back and floods the picture. Re-aiming the camera, moving it away from the reflective surface or turning the infrared down normally fixes it without any new parts.

Can you fix a camera kit I installed myself?

Yes, that is a common call. We assess the cable, the recorder and the cameras, tell you which parts are still doing their job, and quote on the rest. Often a cable run through the roof space is sound and stays, which makes the job much smaller than a full replacement.

Is it worth upgrading a kit or starting again?

It depends on what is there. Existing data cable in the roof is the expensive part of an install and it usually stays if it is in good condition. Cameras and recorders are more often replaced, since old recorders frequently cannot handle the resolution new cameras record at. That gets checked before anything is quoted.

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